Autumn…fun and scary!

With Autumn comes cooler weather, bountiful harvests and lots of fun activities for the whole family. I remember when my family was young, we would go to the nearest corn maze and get lost for hours. We also loved to hike, pick pumpkins and apples. When acceptable, our dog always came with us. The kids and the dog always had a lot of fun, and everyone always ate things that weren’t part of our regular diet. That was fine for us humans, but sometimes the dog got fed something that didn’t agree with him.

I remember two such instances where stomach upset occurred after an excursion. One was when our dog ate almost as much ice cream as the kids did. While this doesn’t upset all dogs, some can’t tolerate milk products. Well, our dog can tolerate some milk products, but I guess heavy milk fat ice cream isn’t one of them. Let’s just say it was an interesting ride home.

The other instance was the wonderful holiday of Halloween. This is my son’s favorite holiday and he loved dressing up and decorating the house. Our dog was always dressed in a costume and went trick or treating right alongside the kids. Unfortunately, dogs and candy don’t mix. Our first Halloween with a dog was a learning experience for my son. While trick or treating with his beloved pet was a great joy, he quickly learned that he now had to make sure his candy was out of the reach of his very large German Shepherd, who could reach anywhere my son could. And chocolate was an irresistible treat for this 107 pound gentle giant. He helped himself and I in turn woke up the vet with some very scary questions. The vet, however, was far less concerned than I was. Thankfully chocolate has different degrees of toxicity and that toxicity depends on the type of chocolate and on the size of the dog. I was immediately overjoyed that our dog was rather large, and that the chocolate was milk chocolate.

So here’s what I learned about chocolate toxicity in dogs. The darker the chocolate, the higher the danger and the smaller the dog, the easier it is to be poisoned by the chocolate.

So…while enjoying all the season has to offer, be sure to remember what’s good and what hurts your precious pet.

HAPPY AUTUMN!

 

April is National Pet First Aid Awareness Month

April is National Pet First Aid Awareness month. Most families have a First aid kit in their home or vehicle but not usually a pet first aid kit. It is important to remember that if your family has a pet, having a pet first aid kit at home and in your vehicle when traveling is vital. Be prepared for any type of pet emergency by keeping a first aid kit readily available.

You can purchase a ready made Pet First Aid kit or you can build your own first aid kit, one for the home and one for your car. Either way, it is important to be prepared for anything that may leave your pet injured and remember, an injured or frightened animal may get agitated and bite when you try to help. Having a properly fitted muzzle is a must. First aid kits for pets should have the following:

Pet First Aid checklist

Tick Remover
Latex Gloves
Emergency Blanket
Non Adhesive Dressing
Adhesive Tape
Saline Eye Wash
Ice Pack
Styptic Powder
Antiseptic
Digital Thermometer
Skunk Odor Remover
Tourniquet
Emergency ID Tag
Slip Lead/Leash
Emergency Food & Water
Portable Food & Water Bowl
Liquid Bandage
Blunt tip Scissors
Hydrogen Peroxide 3%
Soft Basket Muzzle-Properly Sized

Many of these items can be found in your local drug store and in your local pet store. In addition to having an emergency first aid kit every pet owner should know how to perform CPR. Many local pet stores offer CPR classes. The time invested in a class could pay dividends later if an emergency should arise.

Spring has Sprung!

Well, believe it or not, Spring has sprung. It has been a long snowy winter and everyone is eager to get outdoors.  Even the animals are getting active already.  If you haven’t noticed yet, you soon will, that the skunks are now active. So in the spirit of pet safety, here are a few facts for you. And remember, we are well equipped to remove skunk odor from your furry friend. Happy Spring!

A long, snowy winter usually means that we have been hermits for months and our dogs have not had much exercise. I know my pooch spent most of the winter curled up on the couch. As such, getting out and walking feels so great! However, keep in mind that if your dog has been a couch potato, too much exercise all at once will cause muscle aches for them, just as it does for us. Start out slow and ease your way into your normal walking routine.

While you are out shedding the winter weight, keep an eye out for the critters coming out of hibernation, mainly skunks. They are already out and we have been fielding phone calls for a couple of weeks now for dogs that need to be de-skunked.

Skunks start hunting for food just after dusk, so if you are an evening walker, avoid letting your dog wander to the end of the leash. Keeping your pet close and out of bushes and fence lines will potentially avoid an encounter with any foraging skunks. All it takes for your dog to get sprayed is to sniff a bush with a skunk hiding inside.  Generally, if a wild animal is hiding on your walk route, your dog will know long before you do. A lot of dogs will rush a bush or fence that contains any animal, wild or not.

If you do encounter a skunk and your dog needs attention, we can take care of that. Whether it’s a full skunk bath or a home treatment, we have the product you need. While we can only give a bath during operating hours, we do have a product that you can keep at home for night time skunking. Our thought process is this: if you have a skunk odor remover handy, you probably won’t ever need it, but if you don’t, you will need it in the wee hours of the night.

So, in closing, enjoy the Spring weather, and call us if you need us!

Summertime Care

Summertime, summertime, sum sum summertime…such a lovely tune to remember the best time of year. But with the beautiful weather comes the nuisances of pests. Some pests are annoying and some are down right dangerous. Ticks and fleas are not only a nuisance, they can cause all kinds of illnesses from anemia due to flea infestation to Anaplasmosis or Lyme from ticks. These are very serious illnesses that can be easily avoided with the proper application of a flea and tick repellant.
Some animals cannot handle the application of a repellant so it’s always best to consult your veterinarian before starting any type of prevention treatment.

That said, in our area, Worcester County, the products that we find work the best are Frontline and K9 Advantix.

Frontline works best if fleas are the bigger problem since it kills fleas and flea eggs quite effectively. However, ticks must bite before they start to die which may increase the risk of tick borne illnesses. Frontline has a product for cats as well.

K9 Advantix works really great on ticks since it starts killing ticks as soon as they land on your dog. In our experience, this product works better on ticks than other than other products and it works equally well on fleas. The greater benefit, however, is that it also repels and kills mosquitoes which transmit heartworm. For us, this is our go to product to protect our own dogs. The only downside to this treatment is that it’s toxic to cats so you must keep your cat clear of your treated dog until the product is absorbed completely.

Good grooming throughout the summer season is the best defense against all sorts of infestations. Your groomer should be trained to spot any type of infestation and treat it accordingly and with regard to any treatment you may have already applied.

The other advantage to good summer grooming is that your pet will be much more comfortable in the summer heat.

So, in conclusion, to keep your pet healthy and comfortable, regular grooming and appropriate pest prevention is key. But as always, check with your vet before starting any type of pest treatment.

Enjoy your summer!

Are Ticks a Threat Even in The Winter?

By Vet Depot

Even with snow on the ground, ticks can still be a threat to pets on warm winter days. Remember, ticks have a multi-year life span, so many survive the winter months depending on their stage of life.

Ticks also like to hang out in leaf litter when the weather is cold because it provides them with insulation. So, letting your dog run through or roll in large piles of raked up leaves may not be a good idea. It’s smart to manage your yard to minimize tick exposures. This includes dealing with leaf litter and stacking wood neatly to avoid rodent habitat.

Ticks tend to indulge in three big blood meals over their lifetime. The first typically comes in the summer after hatching. Those larval ticks are usually disease-free and often use a mouse for their first meal. They hang out over the winter and come out as nymphs the following spring. Through May and June, they are actively hunting for a meal – a deer, mouse or pet will do. The third meal is generally in the fall right before the adult tick reproduces and dies. If the adult tick doesn’t find a good meal in the fall, it may stick around through winter and into the spring. Realistically, your pet is at risk for tick bites all year long.

Food Sensitivities vs. Food Allergies

A Look at Food Sensitivities and Allergies in Dogs
by VETDEPOT on JANUARY 11, 2013

Two types of food sensitivities affect dogs: food intolerances and food allergies. They aren’t the same thing. Food intolerances are a digestive problem with digestive symptoms. They are often caused by digestive disorders or by a lack of the enzyme(s) needed to digest a certain food. For example, dogs or people who don’t produce the lactase enzyme can’t break down a sugar in milk called lactose. These people or animals are lactose intolerant. Food allergies, on the other hand, are hypersensitive immune system responses to a food. Allergies may also produce digestive symptoms, but skin and respiratory symptoms are typical, too.

Symptoms Are Key to Differentiating Between Canine Food Sensitivities

The symptoms your dog experiences are important for determining whether you’re dealing with a food intolerance or a food allergy. Again, intolerances cause symptoms associated with the digestive tract and function. Bloating, gas, diarrhea, nausea, vomiting, and other general digestive discomfort are typical signs of an intolerance. These may present with an allergy, too, but other symptoms, such as itching, rash, hives, sneezing, coughing, or wheezing are more likely.

Why Distinguish Between the Types of Food Sensitivities?

The distinction between these food sensitivities is important because it affects whether your dog can ever eat the problem food. Depending on the degree of intolerance, your dog may be able to eat a little of the offending food without problems; the severity of symptoms is generally tied to the quantity consumed. With an allergy, though, the offending food must be avoided entirely. The severity of the reaction isn’t related to the quantity eaten, and even a morsel can trigger a serious reaction. Plus, allergies generally become worse with repeated exposure to the allergen, and allergic responses are typically much more serious than digestive disturbances caused by an intolerance. Allergies can even be fatal.

What Foods Are Usually to Blame?

Dogs may have an intolerance or an allergy to any food. They may also be sensitive to seasonings, fillers, additives, or other ingredients in food. The most common allergens include wheat gluten, meat and meat byproducts (including beef, poultry, pork, lamb, rabbit, and seafood), dairy, and soy. If your dog is allergic to one food, it’s likely she’s allergic to others, too. Canine food intolerances are often to the same foods.

How Do You Figure Out Which Foods Are Responsible?

Any chronic symptoms are cause to consult your veterinarian, and this holds true if you suspect your dog has a food sensitivity. Your veterinarian will guide you through the process of identifying the source of your pet’s problems. Deduction begins by taking your dog off all the foods and ingredients she eats and replacing them entirely with foods she’s never eaten until all symptoms clear up. Next, you add the old foods back in gradually, one by one, and wait for symptoms to return. If a whole food causes problems, the allergy or intolerance can be diagnosed. If a food with multiple ingredients triggers a response, more exclusions and additions will be needed to narrow down the offending ingredient.

The Killer Frosts are Coming…

The ones that kill fleas and ticks that is. Here in the pet service world, we wait with bated breath for the heavy frost that kills these pesky insects. Unfortunately, it takes at least three really good, heavy frosts to kill off the fleas and ticks and drive the rest into hibernation. And until that happens, Autumn is the time of year when your animal is most at risk for bringing them indoors. The hot weather certainly brings with it an abundant supply of fleas and ticks to combat, but we are all armed and ready to fight with the various products on the market. However, most people stop using commercial products once the cool weather starts, assuming the danger is over. Because of this mindset, fleas and ticks get a free ride…right into your home via your pet.

The reason we see a rise in flea infestations this time of year is that we not only get lax with the preventative treatments, but also the fleas are desperate to get somewhere warm, and your pet is the perfect place to snuggle in for the upcoming winter.

So…if you get the creepy crawlies like I do when you see fleas and ticks, keep up your preventative treatment until there has been three hard frosts. And then for good measure, give one more month of treatment to catch any stow-aways that may have found a warm place in your pet’s bed.

Happy hunting!!!

Autumn is here…and so is the extra fur.

Deshedding Double Coat Dogs – Pet Tips from DogDayz Grooming

dog grooming in worcester

Before de-shedding

Do you have a double coated dog? You know, the kind of dog that seems to lose more coat than any dog has a right to? Well, most double coated dogs shed their coat twice a year and this time is coming upon us once again. The best way to combat this phenomenon, is to get a really good grooming to coax all that extra fur out of it’s comfy place in your dog’s coat. The tools your groomer uses not only do a wonderful job of

dogdayz dog grooming in worcester ma

Clogged Coat

getting all the dead coat out, but also stimulate the skin to grow healthy coat for the winter. It is essential to remove dead coat before the winter hits, since any left over dead coat will actually make it more difficult for your dog to keep itself warm in the winter months.

A dog keeps itself warm or cool by regulating the layer of air that sits between the skin and the coat. If the dead fur remains on a dog, it clogs that layer of air and prevents the dog from properly warming or cooling itself, thereby reducing it’s ability to keep warm in the winter. So, if the fur is not removed, the dog will actually be colder in the winter than it needs to be.

dogdayz dog grooming in worcester ma

De-shedded Coat

Also, along that same train of thought, dogs that don’t have double coats but have a hair coat, need even more attention than their double coated cousins. Hair breeds like Poodles, Bichons and Yorkies need constant brushing and regular grooming during the entire year, especially in the winter. These type of dogs don’t shed like a double coated dog. Instead, the hair that they shed gets caught up in the healthy hair and tangles up, causing matting of the coat. When this happens, the mats pull on the skin and can cause a sore under the mat. It also traps moisture, keeping the dog’s skin constantly damp. And we all know how uncomfortable it is to go outside in the winter with damp hair. It’s just really hard to stay warm. The same thing holds true for dogs.

So to keep your furry friend comfortable all season long, make an appointment to not only make him beautiful, but to keep him healthy at the same time. He’ll thank you for it with lots of extra kisses!

 

dogdayz dog grooming in worcester ma

Raffy feeling better after de-shedding

dogdayz dog grooming in worcester ma

Raffy with a pile of dead coat that has been removed.

Skunk Season is Upon Us!

Tips for removing skunk spray from pets – Pet Tips from Dog Dayz Grooming   

Well, believe it or not, Spring has sprung. It has been a long snowy winter and everyone is eager to get outdoors.  Even the animals are getting active already.  If you haven’t noticed yet, you will soon, that the skunks are now active. So in the spirit of pet safety, here are a few facts for you. And remember, we are well equipped to remove skunk odor from your furry friend. Happy Spring!

BIOLOGY AND BEHAVIOR

The striped skunk is about the size of an adult house cat and its fur is mostly black with white on top of the head and neck. In most animals the white extends down the back, usually separating into two white stripes. Spotted skunks are black with white spots or short white streaks. They are smaller than the striped skunk, about half the size of a house cat.

Skunks are nocturnal, hunting at night for insects, grubs, small rodents, snakes, frogs, mushrooms, berries and fruit, pet food, bird food, and garbage. Skunks have a high preference for eggs and, as a result, ground-nesting birds suffer losses.

Breeding usually occurs during February and March for the striped skunk; gestation time is about 9 weeks and litters range from four to six kits. After a few months the kits can be seen following their mother as she makes her nightly rounds in search of food. Skunks do not hibernate, but in regions of colder weather females may congregate in communal dens during the winter.

Skunks often den in burrows, but because they prefer to do as little digging as possible, they will use abandoned burrows dug by ground squirrels, fox, or coyotes, enlarging them only if necessary. If dens are scarce, they will readily use brush piles, hollow logs, and culverts. In urban settings, they den under decks, porches, or beneath buildings.

There is cause for concern when skunks take up residence in an urban or suburban area because they are primary carriers of rabies, a viral disease transmitted by the bite of an infected animal. Skunks are also carriers of other diseases including leptospirosis, listeriosis, canine distemper, canine hepatitis, Q-fever, tularemia, and trypanosoma. Skunk spray can also be toxic to a dog if the dog gets a direct spray.  Ingestion or a face spray can cause temporary blindness as well as anemia and skunk toxic shock syndrome. If your pet gets a direct face spray, contact your vet.

Skunks are attracted to residential areas by the ready availability of food, water, and shelter. They become a nuisance when they live under porches, decks, garden tool sheds, or homes. They like to feed on ripening berries and fallen fruit and cause many other garden problems by digging while in search of grubs and other insects. They often search for food in lawns by digging small pits or cone-shaped depressions that range from to 3 to 5 inches across. Like raccoons, they may also damage lawns by rolling back sections of sod in search of insects.

MANAGEMENT

Because rabies is endemic in the skunk population, some city or county health departments assist in the control of skunks by providing trappers to remove them from residential areas. The skunk’s propensity to spray their musk-laden spray is sufficient to make them unwelcome visitors, especially in close proximity to homes. Several actions can be taken to make gardens, yards, and residences less attractive to skunks.

Detection

Because they are usually active only at night, many people never see skunks as they travel through their neighborhoods or yards. Barking dogs may be the first apparent sign of their presence, and the odor resulting from a skunk/dog confrontation will provide positive evidence. If skunks repeatedly travel through your yard or garden, sooner or later you will detect a faint skunk odor, even if the skunk has not sprayed. As with raccoons, an occasional visit by a skunk or a family of skunks may not be cause for concern, but if these visits become commonplace, some action is probably warranted. During the breeding season, males frequently spray when fighting over females. The presence of these odors in late winter is a signal that skunks might be nearby and that it could be necessary to take appropriate measures to prevent pregnant females from accessing potential nesting sites underneath buildings.

Habitat Modification

Potential den sites can be limited by cutting back overgrown shrubbery and by stacking firewood tightly. To reduce food sources, fallen fruit should be removed frequently. Garbage cans should have tight-fitting lids, and food items or table scraps should not be placed in compost bins. Food placed out-of-doors for pets should be removed by nightfall.

Exclusion

As with many other vertebrate pests, the best solution to skunk problems beneath porches or buildings is to screen or block them out. Close off all potential entrances or openings under houses, garden tool sheds, mobile homes, porches, and decks with 1/4-inch mesh hardware cloth. The advantage of using the small mesh is that it will also exclude rats and house mice if installed correctly. Skunks will work hard to get into a desirable denning space, so take care to make fittings good and tight. If there is soil underneath the potential entrances, bury the wire 6 inches to make a good seal.

Once skunks have made their home beneath a building, the problem is a little more difficult because you have to be sure the animals have left before blocking the opening. One way to determine this is to sprinkle a smooth, 1/8-inch thick layer of flour just in front of the point of entrance to form a tracking patch. Examine the tracking patch soon after dark; the presence of footprints will indicate that the animal has left and the opening can be closed. However, blocking the entrance is more problematic if there are several young left behind. If you are not sure that all the skunks beneath a building have left, a one-way swinging gate can be fashioned that will allow any remaining skunks to leave but not to reenter. This gate can be constructed from 1/2-inch mesh hardware cloth hinged at the top of the frame and left loose on the other three sides. It must be larger than the opening so that it can only swing outward. Skunks will push it open to leave but will not be able to push it inward to reenter. This is ineffective, of course, if the kits are not yet mobile; kits not yet able to walk may have to be removed by other means. The placement of one or more floodlights beneath the building facing outward through the skunk’s entry point will often assist in driving them away from a location.

Trapping

Skunks can be trapped with an enclosed cage-type, live-catch trap. Plastic box traps are superior to wire traps because they are completely enclosed, thus reducing the risk of getting sprayed while removing the trapped animal from the site. Individuals who have no experience trapping skunks should hire a professional wildlife control operator. Professionals have the experience and all the necessary equipment to trap and dispatch the animal. An experienced trapper is also much less apt to be sprayed, an event to be avoided if at all possible.

Other Control Methods

A few commercial products are available for repelling skunks, but unfortunately they are not very effective. Ordinary household ammonia has been used with some reported success as a home remedy repellent for driving skunks from beneath buildings.

It is sometimes also suggested that food for skunks can be reduced by managing grubs and other insects in lawns. This is done with the hope that the animal will refrain from further digging. If your lawn is infested with insects or grubs, treat your lawn to remove them. This will also help you get a beautiful green lawn that has strong roots.

Burrow fumigants such as gas or smoke cartridges may be used in rural areas if the burrows used by skunks can be located and are not under or near buildings. They are not generally recommended for use in residential areas because of the risk of fire and penetration of the gas into buildings. These cartridges are ignited and pushed into the skunk’s burrow. The burrow is then sealed off with soil and packed tightly to prevent the toxic and asphyxiating smoke from escaping. Follow the product instructions carefully.

Odor Removal

There are several options for odor removal. The chemical neutroleum-alpha is one of the most useful neutralizers for removing the unpleasant skunk scent on furniture or in buildings, but this material and products containing it are not readily available. There are also other commercial products sold for neutralizing or masking skunk odor. We recommend Skunk Off which works very well and is a product we carry. We also recommend that you always have a bottle in your cabinet since most sprayings happen at night when stores are closed. If you cannot find such products easily, contact a professional wildlife control operator, who may be able to provide neutroleum-alpha or can tell you where it can be purchased. Do not use neutroleum-alpha on pets or people. If your dog or cat has confronted a skunk, call your veterinarian to determine current recommendations for washing the animal to get rid of skunk odor.

A home remedy formulation reported by some to be effective is as follows:
1 quart 3% fresh hydrogen peroxide
1/4 cup baking soda
1 teaspoon liquid soap.

Once the hydrogen peroxide is mixed with the baking soda, the mixture is unstable and generates oxygen, and thus cannot be bottled or stored. Apparently, oxidation changes the chemical composition of skunk scent so that it no longer smells. When the fresh mixture is applied to items contaminated by skunk odor, the smell diminishes quickly. Any leftover mixture should be diluted several fold with water and poured down the drain. Hydrogen peroxide mixtures can be used safely on pets and people as well as on clothing and furniture. Rinse pets thoroughly with water after treatment.

Skunk Bites

Rabies, an infectious disease caused by a virus organism, is found in the saliva of infected animals. It affects only mammals and is transmitted most commonly by a bite. With the exception of bats, the disease is almost always fatal. People can survive the bite of a rabid animal, but only if medical attention is received in time. A physician should attend to ALL skunk bites, no matter how minor, and the local health department should be notified of the incident.

Skunks that seem tame or listless and wander about during daylight hours should be treated with great caution because this behavior is symptomatic of rabies. Also, if they exhibit no fear of people or pets and show some aggressive behavior, chances are quite high that they are rabid.

If you live in an area where skunks occur, be sure your dogs and cats are routinely vaccinated against rabies. Some dogs will confront skunks whenever they get an opportunity. Even though they suffer when they get sprayed, some dogs never learn.